The Bull on Bell Street
Bell Street
Henley RG9 2BA
www.bullonbell.co.uk
01491 576554
A HENLEY town centre pub is set to become the top spot in town for alfresco dining and drinking in its new-look courtyard area this summer.
That’s the aim at The Bull on Bell Street, which has re-opened after a major refurbishment.
The Bull, dating back to the 15th century, is one of Brakspear’s 10 managed pubs. It’s next to the company’s head office and just yards from the original Brakspear brewery building. Marston’s now contract brew Brakspear ales now at its Witney brewery.
The pub’s courtyard can seat 100 diners – double what it could before. It has a huge, new, retractable roof which can be moved in four separate sections, to give protection from glaring sunshine – or rain.
The area has lots of greenery, a water feature, an outdoor fireplace, as well as comfy settees and armchairs among the tables.
For those who despaired of grey-themed interiors seemingly everywhere, the pub’s interior is a colourful joy of coral, pretty greens and other shades. There are bold and beautiful floral wallpapers and furnishings set against plain colours. Botanical and bird prints hang on the walls and real plants and flowers are in profusion.
A rowing boat and paddles nod to Henley’s rowing heritage. Bee and honeycomb designs are from the Brakspear company logo – and Honeycomb Houses, the group name for the managed pubs. The first English pope, Nicholas Breakspear, was a distant relative of the Brakspear family. Pope Nicholas’s papal seal (logo) was a bee.
The makeover by Brakspear’s in-house design team works well.
The pub is offering a brunch menu. And main courses include steaks, burgers, sourdough pizzas, vegetarian dishes, salads, filled ciabattas and sharing boards. There is a specials board and also Sunday roasts.
Drinks range from Brakspear cask ales to wines, many gins and also cocktails including one called the Bees Knees.
I enjoyed fresh English asparagus, homemade tomato, pepper and garlic Romesco sauce and a poached egg (£7.50). The filleted Cornish plaice, pea velouté, sugar snap peas and semi-dried tomatoes with gnocci (£20) was fresh and summery.
The Eton mess (£7.50), without piles of whipped cream, but with cheesecake, meringue and fruit was delicious.
My husband enjoyed his lightly battered squid with garlic aioli (£9.50), followed by a British wagyu burger (this kind of burger deservedly being all the rage for taste), with its light and fresh bun and skin on fries (£18).
His apple crumble with Bailey’s custard was topped with honey comb (£8).
SUE CORCORAN
